How to Train Teenager Stage Dogs

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How common is it for women to have intercourse with dogs?

Lately I have been seeing many news stories about women having sex with their dogs. Also, there are various blogs/forums informing women on how to have sex with their dog, the “knot” etc.

Here are a few news stories and “guides”:

1 – Intercourse with Dogs: Receiving (Vaginal and Anal)

(A) General Discussion

Most male dogs are more than happy to mount you and **** you silly. Some are less enthusiastic than others. There are dangers to being mounted by a male dog though.

First, one must understand the anatomy of the male canine reproductive system. A dog’s penis is unlike that of a human. The appearance, texture and sensitivity are much different. Working from the tip back, the end of a dog’s penis is somewhat blunt with a slight angle. It typically swells to its greatest shaft width along the first 2/5 then gradually tapers until you reach the bulb at the base of the exposed, unsheathed penis.

The bulb, (bulbous glandis) is a large swelling at the base of the penis which consummates the tie between a bitch and a male during sex. On a black lab, it’s normally about 3 to 3.5 inches wide, or about 7 to 8 inches in circumference�A pretty good handful for most of us. If you’re going to have sex with a male dog, the bulb and the Os Penis are your main concerns. The Os Penis is a bone inside the shaft of a dog’s penis.

If he gets overly excited and starts thrusting wildly, you could get jabbed in the wrong places with it. This is more likely to occur during anal intercourse than vaginal, but be aware that unprepared vaginal intercourse with an overeager dog can result in lesions, tears, and painful bruising to the vaginal wall. Same thing with anal sex, except the results can be even worse due to the increased likelihood of bacterial infection.

I don’t have any female friends so I can’t really figure this out. To those brahs who have female friends, or FEMALE MISCERS out there – how common is this? Can I get a number here? Do 50% of women have sex with dogs, what is the numbers?

I think this might be a reason why there are so many FAs. Women are too busy banging their dogs.

In this Article

In this Article

In this Article

• Puppies and How to Take Care of Them
• Adult Dogs and Their Care
• Older Dogs and How to Take Care of Them

As your dog grows from puppy to senior, you’ll need to adjust how you take care of them. Here’s what to expect as they move through six stages of life.

Puppies and How to Take Care of Them

Life Stage No. 1: Puppy. Your dog is a puppy from the time it’s a newborn until it’s able to reproduce.

This happens at different ages, depending on the breed of your dog. Small breeds tend to reach sexual maturity earlier than larger breeds.

Weaning. Puppies slowly switch from their mother’s milk to eating other foods when they’re 3 or 4 weeks old. They should be fully switched over from milk to food by the time they’re 7 or 8 weeks old.

Feeding. The number of feedings per day changes as your puppy gets older:

• 2 to 3 months old: 4 times a day
• 3 to 6 months old: 3 times a day
• 6 months old to 1 year old (up to 24 months in larger breeds): 2 times a day

After age 1, feed your dog once or twice a day.

Dental Care. Dogs may show signs of gum disease by age 4 — or even as early as age 1 in some small-breed dogs — if you don’t take proper care of their teeth. So the right time to begin proper dental care is when your dog is still a puppy. To clean your puppy’s teeth, use a special toothbrush made for dogs or else use a clean piece of gauze wrapped around your finger. You can make your own toothpaste out of baking soda and water or buy one that is specially formulated for dogs. Never use toothpaste that’s meant for people.

House training. You can introduce the idea of house training as soon as your puppy is weaned. They are still developing, though, so don’t expect them to learn quickly. By the time they are 4 to 6 months old, they can usually go without having accidents.

Spaying and neutering. You may want to have your puppy spayed (removing females’ ovaries and uterus) or neutered (removing males’ testicles). These operations keep dogs from reproducing and having more puppies. They are usually done when your puppy is around 6 months old.

Spaying and neutering while they are puppies rather than as adults can help prevent problems like breast cancer and testicular disease when they get older.

Vaccines. Dogs need several rounds of vaccinations or shots during their first year. Talk to your veterinarian about which ones your dog needs and when to get them.

Continued

Adult Dogs and Their Care

In these three stages your dog is in the prime of their life. The ages for these stages may differ with each breed, but here are some guidelines:

Life Stage No. 2: Junior. Now your dog is kind of like a teenager. Although they can reproduce, they are still growing, so are not quite an adult yet. Their age in this stage ranges from 6 to 12 months.

Life Stage No. 3: Adult. Your dog is officially an “adult” once they have finished growing. They look and behave like a grown dog. Their age ranges from 1 to 7 years.

Life Stage No. 4: Mature. Your dog has hit middle age! Their age is older than 7 years. Breeds that are smaller — as measured by weight, not height — tend to live longer than bigger dogs.

While they’re usually easier to care for than puppies, grown dogs still need your help with a few things so they can live their best:

Exercise. No matter their life stage, be sure your dog gets plenty of exercise. It will help keep them happy and at a healthy weight. Just don’t overdo it, especially in large and giant breeds, because their skeletons are not mature until about 2 years of age.

Vaccines and visits to the vet. Take your dog to the vet every year for a checkup and vaccines to protect themВ against disease.

Older Dogs and How to Take Care of Them

Life Stage No. 5: Senior. Your dog enters this stage once they have reached the last quarter of their life expectancy. A dog’s lifespan varies according to size and breed.

Life Stage No. 6: Geriatric. Your dog has reached their life expectancy and is still going! Dogs stay in this final stage for the rest of their lives.

As they get older, your dog may slow down and need a little more TLC.

Food. Older dogs may not need as much food as they did when they were younger. Ask your vet whether you should switch to food made for senior dogs and how much to feed them.

Continued

Checkups. You may need to begin taking your older dog to the vet for checkups every 6 months. That’s because later in life, dogs are more likely to develop arthritis and other diseases. Routine blood tests can help detect problems early, such as kidney disease. Early diagnosis and therapy can help prolong their life.

Your dog may develop bad breath and dental problems as they get older. Talk to your vet about how to care for your dog’s teeth.

Temperature. Older dogs still need exercise. But they often can’t handle extreme temperatures as well. So, protect your senior dog from overheating.

Home. Later in life, dogs may have poorer vision and more trouble walking and thinking clearly. “Age-proof” your house to protect your dog by keeping the floor clear of electric cords and other objects. Provide thicker bedding so there is less pressure on their joints when lying down.

Sources

Bartges, J. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association, January-February 2012.

American Kennel Club: “A guide to breeding your dog” and “Aging dogs.”

Greer, K.A. Research in Veterinary Science, April 2007.

ASPCA: “Weaning;” “House training your puppy;” “General dog care;” “Overweight dogs;” “Pet care;” and “Ten Steps to Your Dog’s Health.”

Life with an adolescent dog can be an, um, adventure. Here’s how to make it through with your sanity intact.

What to expect

The adolescent period starts at around six months for small dogs and eight months for big dogs. It lasts until 18 months to two years.

Adolescence is when puppies become more independent, and more interested in the outside world. They can lose their understanding of the training they’ve had – Sparky may have been the star of puppy class, but by ten months old, he can’t tell Down from Heel. Teenage dogs have a harder time paying attention to you because everything else is SO EXCITING AND STIMULATING AHHH.

For people who have never before experienced the transformation of a baby puppy to a teen puppy, it can be a serious blow to the ego the first time they do. They suddenly find themselves no longer at the center of their puppy’s universe but as an afterthought somewhere along the outer edges.

Don’t worry. They’ll appreciate everything you’ve done for them when they’re older.

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Remember: they’re still puppies

Your one-year-old lab mix may look like an adult, but they’re very much not. They’re still learning about the world, still growing into who they’re going to be. Big on enthusiasm, low on understanding. Teenage dogs can seem like real dickheads, but they’re not doing it on purpose. They can’t really help it. It’s allll part of this particular phase of puppyhood. They still need you to guide them and train them like the brand-new critters they really are.

Watch out for the second fear impact period

The first fear impact period occurs when a puppy is about nine weeks old. The second occurs sometime between six months and 18 months. My Belgian malinois, River, had hers when she was eight months old. The onset was marked by an explosive, fearful-barking reaction to a child she had already met and played with just a couple months before.

As a young puppy, River was unusually shy. I did a lot of work to get her over her fears, and it paid off. Until, that is, the second fear impact period, when it seemed like all my hard work was undone! But she bounced back after this.

The fear impact period lasts about 2-3 weeks. If you notice your happy-go-lucky adolescent dog is suddenly scared of things that never bothered her before, she’s probably starting a fear period. Any scary experience will leave a much bigger impression than it would before or after this stage. Continue socializing and training, but take care to make sure nothing can traumatize her during this time.

How to handle your teenage dog

Keep managing. No free-rein of the house just yet

Management is not just for the infant-puppy potty training phase. You probably don’t have to manage your older puppy quite as strictly, but you don’t want to stop entirely. Adolescence is a prime time for bad habits to develop. So use crates, baby gates, and other management tools to physically keep your unruly teenage dog out of trouble.

Keep the socialization train a’runnin’

In recent years, there’s been a big push to teach dog owners how important it is to socialize their 2-4 month old puppies. Puppy classes and socialization training is all the rage. And that’s great! But it’s easy to slack off when the puppy gets older and looks like an adult.

Teenage puppies are kept at home more and don’t get taken on adventures as much. So it’s common for dogs who were well-socialized as baby puppies to regress in their socialization as teenage puppies. They can develop fear or aggression, or become rusty in their ability to communicate with other dogs.

At least a couple times a week, have a socialization adventure: take Sparky to visit a friend, have a friend bring their dog over to visit, take a car ride to an interesting place, etc.

Don’t be afraid to go back a few steps in training

When River was a baby, I frequently took her to a nearby park to practice her basic obedience skills. She was eager to train, and learned to focus intently on me.

And then she became a teenager.

We’d go to the same park, and it was a small miracle if I could get her to even look at me.

This can be discouraging, but it’s normal. Teenage puppies start to really NOTICE the world, and have a hard time focusing.

How do you maintain your relevance to your suddenly fiercely independent pup? By teaching her that:

You’re in charge of the most interesting things in the world

A piece of dog training advice you might hear on occasion: In order to control your dog, you have to be the most interesting thing in the world to your dog.

Easier said than done.

It takes an enormous amount of energy to be the coolest thing in the world to a dog, especially when you’re are at the park and there are other dogs running around and kids on skateboards and smelly bushes and squirrels daring Sparky to just TRY and catch them. And with an adolescent dog? Good luck.

So what’s a mere mortal to do?

Remind Sparky that even though everything else is extremely fascinating, he still has to listen to you. Why? Because you control his access to all that fascinating stuff.

Instead of fighting with the distractions in your dog’s environment, you’re going to put them to work for you and turn the distractions into rewards.

Let’s say you’re on a walk. You want Sparky to stop pulling on the leash. You have some delicious treats with you. You plan to give him one every time he stops pulling to focus on you. One problem: he doesn’t care about the treats. What he cares about is investigating all the trees on your path. So forget the treats. Now, get him to acknowledge you and when he does, even for a second, let him go sniff a few trees. Keep repeating this process, gradually increasing the time Sparky has to focus on you before he can get to the trees.

River and I started doing a lot of focus and attention training. I recorded our training sessions and turned it into the Focus & Come When Called course. If you’d like to see exactly how River “got her brain back” and returned to her attentive, eager-to-train self, you might wanna check that out.

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Last Updated: March 4, 2020 References Approved

This article was co-authored by Pippa Elliott, MRCVS. Dr. Elliott, BVMS, MRCVS is a veterinarian with over 30 years of experience in veterinary surgery and companion animal practice. She graduated from the University of Glasgow in 1987 with a degree in veterinary medicine and surgery. She has worked at the same animal clinic in her hometown for over 20 years.

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While the Saint Bernard was originally bred for the purpose of helping lost travelers in the snowy Alps and guarding its namesake, the Hospice Saint Bernard, it’s now a versatile breed loved for its affectionate nature, strength, and loyalty. [1] X Research source Not everyone can take care of a Saint Bernard, though: it has some special needs and habits which make it a more high-maintenance pet than many other dogs. For example, unlike some large breeds, the Saint Bernard tolerates outdoor living poorly and craves constant support and human attention. So, whether you’re thinking of adopting a Saint Bernard or you already have one, it’s a good idea to learn about the needs and habits of this lovable breed.

If your puppy is six months old, you have likely watched him go through his fast-growing juvenile stage from age three to six months. Now that your puppy has reached six months of age, he can be considered an adolescent.

During this time, your puppy’s physical changes will slow down a bit. Energy levels may increase and you may see a newer side of your puppy’s personality. Be prepared to adapt to your puppy’s needs in this life stage.

Physical Development

By six months of age, your puppy’s growth will slow down. Most small dog breeds will be nearly finished growing at this time, though they may continue to fill out over the next three to six months. Medium dogs often keep growing for a few more months, but at a slower rate. Large and giant dog breeds tend to keep growing until they are 12 to 24 months old. Between six and eight months, many puppies have a “lanky” and awkward look that is quite adorable.

Most dogs are house trained and in full control of their bladders and bowels by the age of six months. House training is mainly complete at this point. Some puppies will still have an occasional accident in the house, especially if there is a change in the routine. Continue to be patient and consistent; this is normal. If your dog is still having major issues with house training, contact your vet for advice. Your puppy may have a health issue that can be treated.

Your puppy should have all of his adult teeth by six months of age. This means that teething is over and your dog may chew less obsessively. Remember that it is still normal for dogs to chew, so make sure you have healthy dog chews available.

Dogs reach sexual maturity between six and 8 months of age. Pet owners should consider having their dog spayed or neutered by six months of age for small-breed dogs and between 9 and 15 months for large breed dogs, after growth stops.

If you have not neutered your male dog, he will begin to show an interest in female dogs, specifically those in heat. He will go to great lengths to mate at this point. Whether neutered or not, he will likely begin to lift his leg to urinate (if he hasn’t already) and may begin marking areas with urine. Marking behavior can be curbed more easily if you stop it early. Catch your dog in the act and redirect him to an appropriate place. Marking behavior tends to be less severe in neutered dogs.

If your female dog has not been spayed, she will likely go into heat (estrus) between the ages of six and eight months. She can easily become pregnant at this time if she is with a male dog. She may also try to escape the house to mate.

Behavior Changes

Your six-month-old puppy is an adolescent now, and his behavior may show it. He may have an increase in energy and willfulness. The dynamic between other dogs may also change; adult dogs can now tell he is old enough to know better and will not go as easy on him if he steps out of line.

Just because your puppy is past the optimum socialization window, it doesn’t mean that socialization should stop. Your puppy is still exploring his environment and learning new things. Continue to expose your puppy to new experiences, people, places, things, and sounds. Reward for calm behavior and ignore fearful behavior.

It is common for adolescent puppies to exhibit some destructive behavior in this stage. This is often caused by boredom due to the increase in energy and confidence. Continue to provide plenty of exercise for your puppy.

Puppies between six and 12 months of age may sometimes act like they “forgot” their training. Be consistent and firm. Continue to have regular training sessions, covering the old basics again, and mixing in newer, more difficult tasks.

Health and Care

Now that puppy vaccines are completed, your puppy will not need to see the veterinarian until adulthood (unless something is wrong). Be sure to watch your puppy for any signs of illness. Contact your vet with any concerns. You are still learning what is normal for your puppy. It is much easier to treat most health issues if they are caught early.

Food and Nutrition

Proper nutrition is an important part of your puppy’s development. In general, you should continue feeding puppy food (dog food labeled for growth) until your puppy is done growing. Large breed dogs often need to stay on puppy food past their first year, but other dogs can usually start to transition to adult food between nine and 12 months of age. Small breed dogs may even transition earlier.

Because your dog’s rate of growth is slowing at this time, it can be easy to accidentally overfeed. Make sure your dog’s growth is overall, not just in his belly. Obesity in dogs is a common problem.   Ask your vet for advice about your dog’s optimum weight. Your vet can also tell you when to transition your dog to adult food.

When feeding treats, make sure they are non-toxic, healthy, and not fed in excess. Dog treats should never make up more than 10% of your puppy’s daily food intake.  

Warning

When giving chew treats, avoid bones, antlers, hooves, hard nylon dog toys, or other hard chews. Even though the adult teeth are all in, they can easily be damaged by chews that are too hard.

Training

You are never truly done training your puppy. Even adult dogs need regular training to keep them sharp. By this time, house training should be basically complete. Now is a good time to fine-tune obedience training. Continue to practice basic commands like sit, stay, and down. Add more advanced things, like roll over. Keep working on the recall cue and add in an emergency recall

As your puppy matures, you may notice new behavior problems cropping up.   Address them as soon as possible. Don’t assume your puppy will grow out of it. The longer you allow inappropriate behavior, the more difficult it will be to correct it. If the issues are too hard to manage on your own, seek assistance from a dog trainer or behaviorist.

Teaching our dogs with industry-leading innovations.

Once the grown dogs return to our campuses from their puppy raising homes, they are ready to learn the tools of the trade. They discover how to become not just well-behaved, meticulously socialized dogs, but professionals!

Now, they are about to embark on the career for which they’ve been preparing. For two to three months the dogs are taught by our professional guide dog mobility instructors to safely guide someone through the complexities of pedestrian travel. Our Guide Dog Training Program maximizes the use of positive reinforcement methods, including science-based Clicker training.

Unique Abilities of Guide Dogs

Our dogs are smart—very smart! In addition to learning how to lead a person safely around obstacles, guide dogs are also trained in “intelligent disobedience”: if they are given an unsafe cue from their handler, they are taught to disobey it (for example: refusing to step out into the street when there is oncoming traffic). Guide dogs are also trained to have impeccable manners (for all those times they visit places of public accommodation, such as restaurants, grocery stores and public transportation), and are capable of avoiding distractions (such as cats!). In addition, all guide dogs possess an eagerness to please and a willingness to work. They choose their profession!

Guide dogs take their cues and direction from their human partners; it’s up to the person to determine the routes they take and if it is safe to cross a street. Through repetition, they may remember a routine course, but it is the handler’s job to know where they are at all times.

Some of the skills guide dogs learn:

• Leading a person in a straight line from point A to point B
• Stopping for all changes in elevation, including curbs and stairs
• Stopping for overhead obstacles, such as tree limbs
• Avoiding obstacles in their path

Two things guide dogs can’t do:

• Determine the route to a new destination
• Read traffic signals

GDB’s Dog Training Methods

Our dogs are trained with positive reinforcement methods that use high value rewards of both food and praise. An abundance of rewards, including physical and verbal affection, builds motivation and confidence, and creates a happy working guide dog. Positive reinforcement methods strive to make the novice dogs successful and prevent them from making errors. As the training advances, dogs are given the freedom to make errors. Instructors use verbal cues and collar cues to gain the desired responses from the dogs, which are followed by rewards.

When a Dog is Paired With a Client

Once the dogs have completed their formal guidework training, they are ready to enter what we call “class training.” This is when a fully-trained dog is matched with a student who is visually impaired and enrolled in one of our residential classes. We are committed to pairing the right dog with the right person. Our extensive training ensures that the team is compatible in every area, from communication styles to personalities. The newly-matched team spends two weeks learning to work together in a variety of real-life situations. Graduation day marks the end of class training and a new beginning for the team as they make their way in the world. It is a special day filled with a lot of love, as puppy raisers, soon-to-be-graduates, and guide dogs all take the stage to celebrate their achievements.

Life for a Working Guide Dog

What dog wouldn’t envy the life of a guide dog? Guide dogs get to go everywhere and do everything their partners do and they are showered with attention. From work and school, to shopping malls, restaurants, and hiking trails, guide dogs lead very active lives. When the harness is on, guide dogs are “all business” – serious about their work, and focused on the safety of the team. When the harness comes off, however, it’s play time!

Length of A Guide Dog’s Service

Most guide dogs work until they are around 8-10 years old, but this varies with individual dogs and their lifestyles. After spending a life of devoted partnership, guide dogs deserve to spend their senior years in comfortable (and pampered!) retirement. They may remain with their partner as a pet, return to the home where they were raised, or be placed in a loving adoptive home. In all cases, they are honored and loved.

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Teach your pup not to treat people like her personal chew toys.

In an earlier episode, I talked about one way puppies get in trouble with their teeth – they chew your stuff. I gave pointers for teaching pups to chew toys and treats instead of furniture and shoes.

Puppies also nip. A lot. Usually during play. The good news is, young puppies have weak jaws and hardly ever draw blood. The bad news is, baby-dog teeth are needle-sharp, so baby-dog nips hurt fiercely anyway. And puppies grow into dogs, with bigger bodies and strong jaws. So, best to prevent a nipping habit from settling in. Fortunately, it’s easy to teach puppies to treat human skin with care.

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How to Get Your Puppy to Stop Nipping

Teaching puppies not to nip is a two-stage process. First, spend a couple of days on tooth pressure. Let your puppy put her teeth on you, but set limits on how hard she can press. Every time you play with her, allow a little less pressure than you did the time before.

Naturally, your puppy will break the tooth-pressure limit every so often. You’ll need to convey to her what she did wrong. She also needs to know what the consequence is for this mistake.

To give your puppy this information, mark the instant she makes a mistake, and immediately deliver a short time-out. It works like this.

You and your puppy are playing – she gives a hard nip. The second you feel those teeth, say “Oops!” or “Too bad!” – that becomes your marker for mistakes. Immediately stop playing, fold your arms, and look away. For 5 or 10 seconds, ignore your pup. Once she’s settled down, you become friendly and fun again.

This method works well because the puppy learns that a hard nip predicts an “Oops!” and an “Oops!” predicts a quick social freeze-out. Hard nipping kills play and makes you be no fun at all. Most puppies want to keep that human engagement going. So they quickly learn to be careful with their teeth.

A nice feature of the time-out method is that it’s not harsh. No need to scold or pinch or shove your fingers down the puppy’s throat. All you have to do is take away the fun and company for a few seconds. Just remember,you’ll need to do this every single time you feel a nip. Otherwise you teach the lesson that sometimes, unpredictably, nipping is okay.

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About the Author

Jolanta holds professional certifications in both training and behavior counseling and belongs to the Association of Professional Dog Trainers and the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants. She also volunteered with Pet Help Partners, a program of the Humane Society of the United States that works to prevent pet relinquishment. Her approach is generally behaviorist (Pavlovian, Skinnerian and post-Skinnerian learning theory) with a big helping of ethology (animal behavior as observed in non-experimental settings).