How to repair grout

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Tile can last for generations, but the grout lines sometimes need attention. Most grout is a porous, cement-based material that can crack and crumble over time, especially in older houses that are prone to settling and movement. The porous nature of grout makes it susceptible to stains from hard water and mildew. If there are small areas where the grout is cracked or crumbling, you can repair the areas without scraping out every grout line and starting over. If your grout has mildew stains, clean with a mildew-killing product before applying liquid grout touch-up coloring.

Repair Cracked Grout

Drag the tip of a bamboo skewer along the grout line to loosen grout that is already cracked. Vacuum out the grout lines where you loosened the grout using a vacuum cleaner with a hose attachment.

Mix grout with water in a small container such as a cup or bowl, following the grout manufacturer’s instructions.

Spread the grout over the grout lines where you removed the grout using the edge of a grout float. Drag the flat across the grout lines in several different directions to pack the grout into the seams and avoid air bubbles.

Scrape excess grout off the tiles with an edge of the float.

Let the grout sit for approximately five minutes, then wipe the tiles lightly with a sponge dampened with plain water. Wait until a chalky haze appears on the tiles, then buff the tiles with a dry rag.

Touch Up Discolored Grout

Shake a grout pen to mix the material inside the pen.

Prime the tip of the grout pen by pressing the tip against newspaper or a folded paper towel until the liquid begins to flow through the tip.

Drag the tip of the grout pen along the grout lines, keeping the liquid off the tiles as much as possible.

Wipe the edges of the tiles with a cotton swab to clean off any liquid that escaped the grout lines.

Things You Will Need

Vacuum cleaner with hose

Grout matched to existing grout

Small cup or bowl

Grout touch-up pen

Newspaper or paper towels

Apply grout sealer after the grout dries to help it resist water.

Warning

If large areas of the grout are cracked, there may be an underlying problem such as a weak or loose substrate, improper substrate or water damage inside the walls. Consult with a tile professional to learn whether the tile needs major repair or replacement.

Things Needed

• Bamboo skewer
• Vacuum cleaner with hose
• Grout matched to existing grout
• Small cup or bowl
• Grout float
• Sponge
• Rags
• Grout touch-up pen
• Newspaper or paper towels
• Cotton swabs

Warnings

• If large areas of the grout are cracked, there may be an underlying problem such as a weak or loose substrate, improper substrate or water damage inside the walls. Consult with a tile professional to learn whether the tile needs major repair or replacement.

• Apply grout sealer after the grout dries to help it resist water.

References

About the Author

Carole Oldroyd, a writer based in East Tennessee, has authored numerous DIY home improvement, Human Resources, HR and Law articles. In addition to holding a degree in paralegal studies, she has more than 10 years of experience renovating newer homes and restoring historic property.

Is the grout between your floor tiles cracking or, worse, crumbling away? There are a few probable causes, but before you tear up the tile and start over. Repairing tile grout is an easy, inexpensive do-it-yourself project that can give your kitchen or bathroom tile a fresh, new look.

If the spaces in between the tiles in your bathroom and shower are dirty or unsightly, you can do a quick grout repair job on the seams to make them look new . Most problems with tile installations have to do with stained or cracked grout or cracked or broken tiles. Though grout is tough, when left .

Home Repair column on repairing tile grouting (S). Grout in a bathroom needs to be repaired occasionally due to water damage and the like. While grout may crack from wear and . Learn how to remove ol discolored tile grout and replace it with new tile grout from home improvement. Attend to cracked or crumbling grout joints as soon. With a few tools and materials, replace chipped grout in any bathroom.

Tagen – It is easy to remove tile grout using an inexpensive power tool as well as a few common tools you probably already have on hand. The grout in our tile floor has worn down in some spots and shrunk in others. Cracked Grout Fix : Pre-mixed non- sanded grout , matching the existing grout.

Water Spray bottle Spoon Sponge Old. How to Quickly Repair Cracks in Tile Grout. Stain-repellent: Grout Fix is a non-porous sealant that resists dirt and water,. Find local contractors to Replace or Repair Tile Grout. HomeAdvisor will connect you with prescreened tile grout repair contractors in your area.

Grout and tile services offered nationwide. From grout cleaning and sealing to grout and tile repair , our grout and tile experts can do it all. GroutPro can remove your broken tile ( tiles ) without damaging the surrounding ones, replace and re- grout to make it look like new again.

View this quick video tip demonstrating how to remove and replace old grout from a tile kitchen countertop and make it look new again. How do you clean shower tiles and grout ? What is a grouting chemical for laying down wall tiles ? Pool Patch Pool Tile Grout Repair Kit is composed of our waterproof Portland cement based grout and our liquid cement bonder specifically designed to . Three years ago, I had one of my bathrooms completely gutted and remodeled. I am having problems with some of the grout around the tiles on the shower walls . Apply the replacement grout at a 45-degree angle to the tile.

Work it thoroughly into the spaces between tiles so there are no air bubbles or . Even the best tiling jobs show their age eventually. When that day comes, remove the grout and replace it to rejuvenate the installation and make the surface .

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Sanded grout is typically installed in the joints between porcelain or ceramic tiles. Over time, grout can develop chips and cracks, or can become discolored and need repair. You can even replace all of the grout between the tiles with grout of a different color just to change the look of the tiled area. The task is time consuming, but a specialized tool helps you avoid damaging the tiles while speeding the work along.

Hold a grout saw by the plastic handle and position the blade against the damaged sections of grout. Saw back and forth into the grout line between the tiles, removing the damaged grout plus about 2 inches of undamaged grout on either side of the damaged area within the grout lines. Remove any other damaged areas of grout in a similar fashion.

Wipe down the damaged areas with a damp grout sponge to remove any dust or residue from the grout lines.

Pour a small amount of sanded grout of the same color as the installed grout into a 5-gallon bucket. Add water to the bucket and mix the grout with a trowel until it reaches a thick and smooth, but not soupy, consistency.

Spread the grout from the bucket over the cleaned grout lines using a grout float. Work the tile into the grout lines thoroughly, then wipe away the excess from the area with the float.

Gently wipe the area around the grout line with a wet grout sponge. Allow the grout to set for about 15 minutes then wipe it down again to level the grout to the desired depth in the joint.

Allow the grout to dry for 24 hours, then wipe the entire area with a grout sponge and clean water. After the water dries, buff the tiles and the grout lines with a thick terry cloth towel to remove any final grout residue from the tiles.

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Properly installed tile and grout should allow for the normal expansion and contraction of tile flooring; however, even minor earthquake tremors, such as those that occur in the Bay Area, may cause the grout to begin to crack and crumble. Once the grout cracks for any reason, it’s time to repair broken grout before there is any damage to the surrounding tiles. While grout may crack from wear and tear, an uneven or weak subfloor may be causing the problem. If you need to repair grout numerous times on any one floor, ask an engineer to look into the underlying cause of the problem.

Measure the width of the grout lines on your tile floor. If the lines are less than one-eighth of an inch, you need unsanded, epoxy or acrylic latex grout. Grout lines wider than one-eighth of an inch need sanded grout. The exception to this is marble tile floors. Sanded grout scratches the surface, so use unsanded, epoxy or acrylic latex on them.

Remove a small sample of the broken grout to take with you to the tile or home improvement store. Match new grout to the sample. You might be able to use more or less water as you mix the grout to get an exact match on the grout shade, but doing so may affect the quality of the grout’s texture and its structural integrity.

Mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water. Clean the area of broken grout with the vinegar mixture.

Cut out the damaged grout with a grout saw. Insert the blade of the saw, which looks like a screwdriver or round handle with a saw on the end, into the joint with the damaged grout. Move the saw back and forth along the joint to cut out the grout. If the grout is particularly difficult to remove, apply more pressure to the grout saw as you move the saw along the joint. Take care not to damage the tiles.

Wipe a damp paper towel over the grout line to clean it out. Remove any excess water puddled in the grout lines. Leave the sides of the tile slightly damp to help the grout bind to the tiles.

Follow package directions for adding the correct amount of water to the grout you selected. Pre-mixed grout has the proper proportions of sand, if necessary, and Portland cement. Add water to the grout in a disposable mixing container. The grout should hold together in a ball when it’s the proper consistency. Push the grout into the joint with a grout float. Smooth the joint with the rounded end of a craft stick.

Wipe the surface of the surrounding tiles with a clean, damp sponge. Rinse the sponge frequently to avoid smearing grout onto adjoining tiles. Allow the grout to dry following manufacturer’s recommendations. Temperature and humidity may affect drying times.

Clean the surface of the surrounding tiles completely with a soft cloth. If the cloth doesn’t remove the haze, mix 1 part white vinegar with 1 part water. Wipe this mixture over the tile with a clean sponge. Wipe it dry with the cloth.

Apply a grout sealer with a small paintbrush following manufacturer’s directions. Allow the grout sealer to dry.

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Grout is a cement based product that is used to fill the joints between tiles. It fills the gaps between all forms of tile, including glass, and is often used in wet and high traffic areas. When the grout begins to crumble, discolor or come loose from the installation, it stops protecting the tiles it surrounds. In the case of glass tiles, which are fragile and rely on the grout to absorb some of the flexing of the substrate, the grout needs to be removed and replaced as soon as damage is noticed to help prevent damage to the tiles as well.

Locate the damaged area of grout and position the tip of the utility knife just above it. Pull down on the knife as you press it into the grout to begin cutting it free.

Make parallel cuts through the grout; one cut on each side of the grout joint. Take care to move carefully and slowly to avoid slipping and scratching the glass tiles. When the blade stops pulling through the grout easily, change it for a fresh one. Never try to cut with a dull blade as this may cause the blade to slip, scratching the tiles or cutting yourself. Use a shop vac or brush to clean the joints between tiles of grout pieces and dust.

Mix up some fresh grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scoop up a small amount of fresh grout onto the end of a grout float and smooth it over the tiles and grout joints. Move the float across the joints from multiple directions to help pack the grout in. Scrape off the excess grout from the tiles with the edge of the float.

Let the grout begin to dry for 10 minutes, then wash the tiles with a damp grout sponge. Use the corners of the sponge to shape the grout joints. Let the grout dry for 24 to 48 hours.

Grout is a thin mortar used for filling spaces between tiles [source: Merriam Webster]. Grout does not strengthen or hold the tiles in any way. Rather, it prevents water from getting between the tiles and gives an aesthetically pleasing finished look to the tiled area. When replacing your grout, you can either try to buy a color that matches the color of the tiles, buy a contrasting color, or even buy a neutral gray color [source: Kolle]. Here we will tell you how to repair grouting that is in bad condition.

• Grout
• Grout saw
• Grout trowel
• Vinegar

Here’s what to do:

1. Mix a solution of even parts water and vinegar.
2. Clean the grout with this solution.
3. Remove the loose grout with the grout saw. Be careful not to chip the tiles.
4. Dampen the grooves with water, using a sponge. Don’t make the grooves too wet.
5. Mix the grout with water, as per the instructions on the package. Spread the grout over the joints using the grout trowel, completely filling them up.
6. Wipe away any excess grout with a damp sponge, before it dries. Make sure you remove any grout from the surface of the tiles. Rinse the sponge when it gets too full of grout and then continue removing the excess grout.
7. Allow the grout to dry.
8. Buff all the tiles with a rag [source: Lowes].

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Dealing with cracked grout is a common issue that comes up for many homeowners at some point. While grout is a durable material, tile surfaces suffer a lot of wear and tear that can crack it, resulting in a shabby look. Therefore, learning how to repair cracked grout can be an essential skill to learn. Here are the basics for completing this task successfully.

Step 1 – Try Grout Caulk

One of the easiest ways to try and repair cracked grout is to simply use grout caulk. This is a substance that matches the color of grout exactly and comes in a normal caulking tube. You can simply squeeze the tube in a caulk gun and apply it to any cracks that you may have. Make sure to smooth the caulking over by wetting your finger and running it over the repaired area. This tends to work better on very small cracks in areas that will not see high traffic. However, it is the easiest method available.

Step 2 – Find Matching Grout

If grout caulk does not work, you will have to find a grout mix that matches what already exists. This will be easy if you have some left over from the original installation. If that is the case, just find a bag and you are ready to go.

If you do not have any left over, you should try and find the exact same brand and color as the original installation. Trying to match an unknown grout by just comparing colors can be very difficult. Therefore, it is best if you can find the exact same material to make sure that it matches.

Step 3 – Mix the Grout

Once you locate the grout that you need, you will need to mix it up. Take a bucket and mix water and the grout together inside; read the directions on the side of the bag to ensure that you use the appropriate amount of water. You need to make sure it is the right consistency before you begin.

Step 4 – Fill in the Crack

With the grout mixed up, you can try filling in the crack immediately. This will be a very easy solution to your problem if it works. Take a grout float and use it to apply the material to the crack. Then, wash off any excess around the outside of the grout line and let it dry. If this works, you should not be able to tell the new patch from the old and it will look very good. However, sometimes you can tell that you patched it and another approach will be needed.

Step 5 – Remove the Old Grout

Take a grout saw and remove all of the existing grout from in between the tiles. Make sure not to apply any pressure to the tile so you don’t break it while you are doing this.

Step 6 – Install Grout

Once the old grout is removed, use the grout float to fill the empty joint. Take a sponge afterward and wipe off the grout lines to level them off and clean away excess.

How to Repair Concrete Grout

The grout that sits between concrete slabs or bricks in some patios, pathways, basements, and garages is made as strong as cement. It has the strength to hold your brick and concrete walkways together for years. However, due to cracks that form over time, eventually repairs will be required.

Not fixing cracks and damage in a timely manner can lead to an unsightly appearance and further damage. Repairing concrete grout is a simple task that requires a grout saw and grout. To learn how this process works, read on!

5 Easy Steps for Cement Grout Repair

Remove the grout that has been damaged. You will need to scrape away the grout using the blade on the back of the grout saw. Dig down into each side of the tile where there’s damaged grout. You don’t want to leave any old grout on half of any slab or tile that you are going to be regrouting.

Use a vacuum to remove the debris and dust that you have created from the removal process. Don’t use water on the area.

Mix water with the grout powder inside of a bucket. Stir this mixture thoroughly with a putty knife that’s wide. It should become a thick mud. Then allow it to sit for about ten minutes before stirring it again.

Spread the grout into the lines of the tile that have had grout removed. Press in the grout using a grout towel and scrape off excess grout from the surface of the tile.

Allow the new grout to dry for about ten minutes. Using a damp sponge, you can wipe off the excess grout from the tile. Once the new grout has cured for the length of time mentioned in the manufacturer’s directions, seal it.

Having your cement regrouted is not a complicated process. However, to ensure everything is done correctly and looks great, we always recommend hiring a professional. Decorative concrete structures always looks their best with professional grouting. For decorative concrete in Colorado Springs, you can trust Flat & Fancy, Inc. for your needs. For any type of regrouting services, contact your local Grout Medic or call 1-888-994-7688.

If the grout in your kitchen or bathroom is chipped, moldy, or just no longer working for you, it may be time to replace it. Follow our guide for removing it manually or with a power tool.

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There are two ways to go about removing grout: with an electric-powered tool, or with a manual tool and a lot of determination. We’ll go over both methods below.

Removing Grout Manually

If you’d rather not purchase a power tool, the pointed metal tip of a traditional, lever-type can opener (also called a church key opener) works just as well, albeit with more time and effort.

How to Choose the Right Grout for Any Tile Job

Draw the point repeatedly along the joint to scrape out the hardened grout. If the tool becomes dull, clamp it in a vise and resharpen the tip with a file.

Alternatively, you can fasten a 6d (2-inch) finishing nail to a short wood dowel for a handy DIY grout-removing tool. Bore a small pilot hole, about an inch from the end of the dowel, then use a hammer to drive the nail through the hole.

Hold the dowel up to the wall and place the nail point in a joint between the tiles. Use short, downward strokes to scratch out the old grout. If the nail point becomes dull, sharpen it with a metal file.

Removing Grout with a Power Tool

The advantage of using a rotary tool or oscillating multi-tool for this job is speed. Rather than possibly taking a few days to complete the project, the entire project can take just a few hours. The disadvantage is that the tool may be too powerful—you might end up chewing through your tile in addition to the grout if you’re not careful.

To use a power tool, fit it with a blade made for tile grout, then turn on the power and lightly apply it to the grout straight on.

The blade should remove the grout without a lot of pressure from you. After you’ve removed the visible grout, angle the blade slightly to reach the grout hidden just behind the tile—but work slowly and carefully to avoid damaging the tile.

After you’ve removed as much grout as possible with the power tool, use a flathead screwdriver to knock out any loose pieces that are still hanging on. Then remove any leftover grout using the manual methods described above.

Looking to update your bathroom without breaking the bank?

Repairing tile grout can be an inexpensive way to freshen your space and make a big impact.

Sometimes, grout cracks develop as a result of age or improper tile installation.

It may take some time and effort to fix the grout, but you could save a significant amount of money by doing the job yourself.

Read on to learn how you can repair cracked shower grout in just a few easy steps:

1. Choose Your Grout Type

Grout comes in two primary forms: sanded and unsanded. The type of grout you choose should be based on the width of the tile joints.

Before you begin, measure the space between the tiles. If it is larger than one eighth of an inch, use sanded grout.

However, do not use sanded grout with metal, glass or marble tiles since it can scratch these surfaces and cause damage.

2. Select the Mortar Color

Grout is available in many colors. If possible, take a loose piece of the current grout with you to the hardware store and find the closest color match.

Don’t worry if you cannot get the exact shade — modifications can be made by adding more water to lighten or grout mix to darken.

3. Clean the Shower

Apply a mildewcide to any mold and allow it to penetrate.

Wash the shower with a degreasing cleaner and use a grout brush to remove stains and mildew.

Let the shower dry completely before proceeding to the next step.

4. Remove the Grout

Remove loose, brittle grout from the walls with a grout removal tool or bamboo skewer. Use even, steady motions so that you do not chip the tile.

As best you can, dislodge all of the old material and vacuum the cracks thoroughly to capture any dust left behind.

Always wear eye protection when removing grout.

5. Mix the Mortar

Follow the instructions to mix the new grout in a clean bucket.

If needed, adjust the color with additions of water or grout until you attain the desired shade.

Stir the mixture using a mixer attachment or drill until it is smooth and creamy.

6. Apply the New Grout

Scoop some of the grout from the bucket with a small putty knife. Using a sponge, apply a smooth layer between the tiles and wipe any excess with a clean, damp cloth.

Continue this process until you have filled every incomplete line with new grout.

When finished, allow the mortar to dry for the time recommended by the manufacturer.

7. Clean and Coat

With a damp sponge, wipe any dirt or hazy residue from the tiles and smooth every fresh grout line.

Let the shower dry and then coat the new grout with a top-quality sealer to keep water out of the grout lines.

Allow the sealer to cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions before using the shower.

Since grout is porous, it tends to crack and crumble over time with normal wear, especially in older homes that are prone to settling and movement.

With a few tools, you can easily repair cracked grout and make your tiles look new again.

Passionate members of our home ownership community eager to share their tips, tricks and advice. Please note, contributions from our guest writers may include links to products or services for which we are compensated.

How to repair grout in a shower?

Bathroom tiles that have sanded grout are more than unsightly, they can also result in damage if left unchecked. By following some steps, you will find that fixing this problem is not as difficult as it may initially seem.

Examine the Grout

Fully examine the entire shower unit to find every instance of cracked grout that needs repairing. Stick a small piece of masking tape next to each so that you do not lose track of it. Examining all the points of damaged & excess grout will also enable you to determine the method of repair. Grout lines that has remained firm despite being cracked needs treatment differently.

Prepare Tools and Equipments

Be aware that grout is available in different colours and, if possible, you should take a loose piece of the cracked grout with you to the hardware store so that you get the correct shade. Do not worry if you cannot get the exact match as slight shade amendments. It can be made by adding more water or grout mix to lighten or darken it respectively.

Remove Grout

Using a grout saw, remove the cracked grout by carefully running the saw across it so that you do damage the surrounding tile or any undamaged grout float. Only follow this procedure for sections of grout where the damage is extensive. Hairline cracks that do not appear to have affected the integrity of the grout rectified with grout sealer. Once this process is complete, use a brush to clear away the resulting dust. So that you are working with a clean surface that will allow the new grout to take.

Mix and Apply Grout

Mix the tile grout in a clean bucket in accordance with the instructions, making slight adjustments with small additions of clean water or additional grout to obtain the correct shade.

Apply the newly mixed compound to the holes created by removal of the old cracked grout. Gather some grout onto a putty knife and smooth it into the hole as cleanly as possible. As you go along, even out the surface of the new grout with a water dampened finger or a putty knife with a rounded tip. Use a damp sponge to gently wipe away any excess from around the repair site and the surrounding ceramic tiles, taking care not to damaging the tiles or remove the grout you have just applied. Allow the grout to dry completely in accordance with the manufacturer’s advice and return to it to use a cloth to buff away any traces of grout remaining on the tiles.

Seal it

Finally, seal the grout, polish the tile, clean and dry. To protect your work and to reinforce the sections of minor damage, such as hairline cracks, apply some grout sealer after the grout has dried. Leave this to dry thoroughly in accordance with the instructions before using the shower again.

To know more about shower leak or grout repair, click here.

How to grout repair – DIY grout. The tile looks to be about 14-15 years old, we are going to repair this grout just to stabilize the tiles, We don’t want to have to replace all tiles or all the grout, I’m just going to do some repair to last until we are ready to do a full renovation. I just get a little bit of cold water, not too much, because we don’t need a lot of it. I am going to use a spoon.

I am going to mix a big amount. I just use a drill with a bucket, but this one just mixes it up. I am used to spooning, this one is dry. I’m not going to touch the water with it, otherwise, the grout would get wet and get hard the one on the box yeah. We just look for the consistency that we’ll be able to fill in the gaps. We need to do it a kind of soft that way it would do penetrate a little bit better between the gaps

I’m not pushing very hard because it is soft, is just going, I’m just going firm on it. Just make sure we have it inside there and then we clean as much as we can for now. We will wait a little bit until it gets hard. Then we’ll come back again and clean it making sure we have it all clean and nice. For now, I just make it smooth. I come back later and once it is hardened I come back later and clean. It really good and just use a sponge, for now, so this is just to clean up the excess. Its a just a quick repair, not a whole lot to it and then once it’s a little bit hard, I come back and clean up. The mess around this around is very easy to clean. Once this part is hard enough, I will come back with a wet sponge and clean it out, and it will look like new

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Maintenance Free Showers!

Learning how to grout tile with Spectralock epoxy is a godsend. Epoxy grout can be very intimidating.

But here’s the deal,

Epoxy grout is the best!

Not only does in make your shower bulletproof, it also provides the lowest maintenance possible for a grout.

Today we’re sharing quick tips on how to grout tile with Spectralock epoxy grout. It’s easier than you think.

How to Grout Tile with Spectralock Epoxy

There are a ton of different grouts. But the best one for color consistency and maintenance is epoxy.

Our Bathroom Repair Tutor member Nicoli used Spectralock and got awesome results. She recommended we give it a shot. So we did on a subway tile shower.

We were impressed. Epoxy can be intimidating because it can be painful to remove from tile.

The biggest fear is the epoxy grout setting up quick and creating a cleanup disaster. Normal grout is hard enough to remove from tile, and epoxy is near impossible.

However, Spectralock is super user friendly. We didn’t have any issues with it setting up too quickly.

Buy the Spectralock mini kit which has Part A & B and choose a Part C, which is the color additive. Mini kits are awesome because they don’t take long to use.

Get all the tools needed in one spot, e.g. white scrubby pads, mixer, gloves, float, sponge, water, utility knife, etc.

Dampen the tile with a sponge and immediately pack the joints with Spectralock. I forgot to mention this in the video, but dampening the tile allows Spectralock to glide over the surface.

Remove excess grout by scraping the float at a 45 to 90 degree angle to the tile.

And keep corners free of grout, they’ll need a silicone caulk joint for expansion and contraction. Latisil is the color matching silicone for Spectralock.

Watch our video for more tips

What’s Next

Spectralock is a great epoxy grout, and we recommend it even for beginners. Permacolor Select grout is also another viable grout option instead of Spectralock.

If you’re doing a bathroom remodel and want to simplify the process enroll into Bathroom Repair Tutor’s Video Library

We show how to build showers (Schluter, Wedi, Curbless, etc.), install tile, upgrade basement bathrooms, and more.

It used to be that having dark grout was a sign that you had a filthy bathroom or kitchen—and to a point, it still can be. However, that is not the only reason why you might want to lighten your grout. These days, grout comes in all sorts of colors, and at times, you might not like the color grout in your bathroom.

How do you lighten dark grout? Lightening dark grout is a relatively simple process that can be done with bleach:

1. Mix your bleach with water.
2. Pour bleach on the grout and scrub.
3. Keep adding the bleach mixture onto the grout every 10 to 15 seconds while you scrub.
4. Let the bleach sit for up to 10 minutes.
5. Rinse!

If you’re looking to get your grout lightened, then bleaching it is an excellent way to make it happen. Of course, pouring your bleach and knowing how to apply it makes all the difference here. This guide will let you know the full scoop on grout lightening.

How Do You Lighten Dark Grout?

There are two major ways to lighten dark grout. The fastest way to get your grout lightened is to sand down grout or use a grout colorant, but that is not exactly feasible for most people that just want to get a slightly lighter shade of color. That is why using bleach is the better DIY option.

Is Bleach Bad for Grout?

It can be if it is used recklessly. A little bit of bleach, when diluted, will be able to subtly lighten the grout’s color—which can be a great thing, if you’re looking to do that. However, dilution is key here.

If bleach is poured on your grout without being diluted, it can cause many problems, including:

• Uneven discoloration. Having your bleach hit the grout without being diluted will cause your grout’s color to lighten at drastically variable rates. The lightening leads to a splotchy, uneven look that does not always look good.
• Unusual discoloration. If you have colored bleach that is a unique hue like green or blue, you might want to rethink using bleach to lighten your grout. Bleach does not always react well with dyes used in grout. So, this might lead to having green grout turn orange, rather than a lime hue.
• Weakening grout. Believe it or not, if undiluted bleach stays on your grout for too long, it can weaken the grout to the point of making it prone to chipping and cracking.

Can Bleach Help Grout?

Though bleach must be used carefully, in small, controlled amounts, it can be beneficial for your grout and tiling. Bleach is a known disinfectant and comes in handy when you’re trying to kill bacteria, viruses, mold, and mildew.

If your grout has been darkened due to the presence of mold or soap scum, bleach can be instrumental in fixing that problem… and preventing it from getting that bad again. Overall, bleach is a tool that will yield different results based on how you use it.

How to Lighten Grout Using Bleach

To get your grout looking lighter, you’re going to need to follow a strict methodology to get decent results. Before I get into the steps, let’s talk about what you’ll need to make it happen.

Tools Required

Prior to getting your grout lightened, you’ll need the following:

• 1 liter of bleach
• 1 large bucket
• 1 plastic bristle brush with hard bristles
• 1 sponge
• 1 pair of gloves
• 1 cloth

The Steps You Need to Take

Getting your grout bleached is not that hard to do. In fact, even the most novice DIY fans can turn their grout a little lighter with this method. Here is how to make it happen.

1. Suit up. Wear your gloves and turn on a ventilator fan in your bathroom. The bleach fumes can irritate your lungs as well as your eyes.
2. Mix five parts water with one-part chlorine bleach. Use the bristle brush to stir the mixture gently, ensuring that everything is evenly distributed.
3. Scrub the grout using the bleach mixture. I suggest dipping and re-dipping the brush every 10 to 15 seconds of scrubbing.
4. Once you have finished scrubbing away at the grout, let the bleach sit on the grout for up to 10 minutes. You can often see results in as little as 5 minutes, but it’s usually better to just wait for the full 10.
5. Rinse your grout with water. I find that wiping down the grout with a sponge prior to a full rinse tends to help get rid of any grit that needed to be cleaned away. When you’re ready to fully rid your grout of the bleach, use a damp cloth to wipe it down.

Once you have finished working through these steps, you should notice a change in your grout’s coloration.

How Much Lightening Should I Expect From This Method?

Every grout mix will respond to bleaching slightly differently. The overall lightening effect can vary greatly depending on the time you leave the bleach on and the initial shade of your grout. The best way to say what you should expect is a range between 3 and 7 shades lighter.

It’s noticeable, but not crazy different.

When Should You Reconsider Using Bleach?

While most off-white grouts will work well with the bleaching method, it’s a bad idea to use this method if you have deeply dyed or colored grout. Using bleach will cause your grout to turn colors that you don’t want it to become.

What Can I Do if My Grout is Brightly Colored?

There are plenty of reasons why a person might want to lighten up grout that is heavily dyed. Though it’s not wise to try to lighten this grout with bleach, you do have two other methods you can use to change the color of your grout.

If regular bleach lightening won’t work, the best option that you can pursue is to change the color of your grout by taping off the tile, cleaning your grout, and applying some grout colorant. Colorant is an excellent go-to if you just need a unique hint of color to your bathroom.

If your grout already has a lot of colorants and layers, you’ll need to sand down your grout and replace it with a lighter shade. Sanding down your grout is often best done by a professional crew who can apply it evenly and avoid common pitfalls that could make your grout look off-kilter.

Conclusion

If you want to lighten grout, you have a few options available to you. It’s possible to lighten dark grout a few shades brighter with the use of bleach. All you need to do is dilute the bleach, scrub away, and rinse it off. As long as it’s done on off-white grout, your color should lighten rather than discolor.

However, if your grout has a bold color (like a bright red or blue), your best options are to use a grout colorant or to replace the grout. For the most part, bleach won’t harm your grout if used responsibly, but when you’re dealing with dye, it can lead to serious discoloration.

If you’re serious about DIY home repairs and touch ups like this, check out my post: Must-Have Tools of the Trade for Home Improvement DIYers.

A quick search led to this post on cleaning grout. As far as repair, it is going to depend on the amount of repair and what needs to be done. Is it possible to elaborate? I hope this helps!

Jennifer: maybe this will help

Thanks Nan, it was helpful!

Mix a half cup of baking soda, 1/4 cup hydrogen peroxide, and 1 tsp of dish soap. Apply to grout and let it work for 15-20 minutes. Scrub with an old toothbrush and rinse.

You said it cleaning possibly could be a little bit of bleach mixed with vinegar water repairing cut out the old gout in put down the new gout Or Philip in smooth it over wait for it to dry and wash away the excess

Hello! Heres some other recommended cleaners

The Best Way to Clean Grout-EVER. | Hometalk

Painted Tile Grout Refresh with grout pen

Grout cleaning and grout removal and replace it

Here’s a Hometalk link for you to consider. Hope this helps

Cementitious, Epoxy, and Furan Grouts: When to Use Them

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All forms of ceramic tile use some type of grout to fill and seal the seams between the tiles. Whether the tile is traditional ceramic, porcelain, or a quarry tile or natural stone, it is critical that the seams between the tiles be adequately filled with a material that prevents moisture from seeping down to the underlayment. To maintain this water-proof quality, all grout will need to be properly maintained—repaired when cracks form and periodically sealed to keep the grout truly waterproof.

There are three main types of grout: cementitious grouts composed of a Portland cement base; epoxy grouts, and furan grouts, with variations available in each type. Cementitious and epoxy grouts are available in different colors that allow you to match or contrast with the color of tiles; furan grouts are usually available only in black.

Cementitious Grouts

Cementitious grouts have as their main component Portland cement, plus filler particles of different sizes, a water-retentive additive, and colored pigments. Cementitious grouts are the traditional grouting material, used most often in residential applications as well as some commercial applications. Cementitious grouts come in a range of colors that let you match or contrast with the tile. This grout is mixed with water and applied with a trowel. The water retentive agent in cementitious grouts retards the drying time, allowing the cement to slowly cure for maximum hardness.

When used with porous tiles such as quarry, slate, or other natural stone tiles, cementitious grout can stain the surfaces. Most professionals seal porous tiles before grouting—a step that is not necessary with standard glazed tiles.

Sanded vs. Unsanded

Sanded cementitious grouts include fairly large sand particles that can be seen and felt—they look and feel gritty. Sanded grout is normally recommended when the grout seams are 1/8 inch wide or more, as the sand provides extra bonding power that prevents cracking. Some care is required if using sanded grouts on highly polished tiles, as the sand can actually scratch the surfaces. Testing the grout on sample tile is a good idea.

Unsanded grouts have a much smoother texture, since the mineral particles they contain are very fine powders that have no noticeable grit. They are used with grout seams that are 1/16 to 1/8 inch wide. When used with with wider seams, unsanded grouts have a tendency to crack because they lack the binding power offered by sanded grouts.

Latex-Modified Grout

Sanded grouts may be formulated with a latex polymer additive, either included in the dry mix or added in as the grout is mixed with water. The additive enhances the water-proof nature of the grout, and also increases strength.

Maintenance

Cementitious grouts are by far the most popular and can be used virtually everywhere that tile is installed. However, even grouts containing latex additives are somewhat porous and subject to staining. All cementitious grouts need to be sealed with a penetrating sealer every year or two to keep them stain-free and fully waterproof.

Epoxy Grouts

Epoxy grouts are an entirely different form, using no Portland cement. Neither is water used in the mixing process. These grouts consist of epoxy resin, silica fillers, pigments, and a hardener. Epoxy grouts are considerably less porous than cementitious grouts and are a good choice in places where acids and greases are present—such as in kitchens.

Epoxy grouts come in both unsanded and sanded forms, although the type of sand used is different from that found in cementitious grouts. Epoxy grouts set up fairly fast, making them a little tricky for amateurs. Epoxy grouts are also much more expensive, costing about $8 per pound vs. $1 to $2 for cementitious grouts. But for areas where maximum stain resistance is required, epoxy grout may be an excellent choice.

Be aware that epoxy grout can badly stain tile surfaces that are porous and unglazed, such as limestone or quarry tiles. If using epoxy grout on these tiles, the tiles should be sealed before grouting.

Maintenance

One advantage of epoxy grouts is that they don’t need to be sealed, as do cementitious grouts. However, they can become stained. Scrubbing with a mixture of bleach and water, or vinegar and water, usually does a good job of cleaning epoxy grouts.

Modified Epoxy Epoxy

Another type of hybrid grout is also available, which is essentially an epoxy grout enhanced with Portland cement. The characteristics of this grout are similar to standard Portland cement grouts—they require regular sealing, etc. However, the grouts are harder, stronger, and are more stain-resistant than standard cementitious grouts.

Furan Resin Grouts

Furan grout is similar to epoxy, but it is made of polymers of fortified alcohols that are highly chemical-resistant. The name derives from the fufuryl alcohol included in the formula. There is no water at all used in this type of grout. Furans are two-component systems that contain a furan resin and a filler powder with an acid catalyst. It is the acid catalyst that causes the furan resins to cure, forming a thermosetting resin that has unsurpassed chemical-, physical-, and thermal-resistance.

Furan grout is commonly used to grout brick pavers and quarry tile and it is also recommended in areas exposed to chemicals and grease. The tile surfaces may be smooth, non-skid, or abrasive, depending on the intended use for the floor. The tile or brick surfaces must receive a wax coating to protect them from staining prior to the installation of furan. Because of the difficulty of installation, these grouts are normally used for industrial projects, such as laboratories, dairies, and meat-packing plants.

Precautions should be made when mixing to avoid breathing the vapors. Special skills are required for proper installation, which must be done when and should be used when temperatures are between 60 degrees and 90 degrees Fahrenheit (70 to 80 degrees is ideal).

Installation Cost

Cost depends on the level of expertise of the contractor and the area on which the tile grout will be installed. As an average, it is safe to say that the cost can range between $3 to $5 per square foot for grouting, cleanup, and sealing (where required).

When grout becomes discolored, cracked and chipped, it’s time to replace it. Follow these step-by-step instructions to learn how.

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Sick of Moldy Grout?

Here’s what you need to fix it: 1. Grout saw 2. Vacuum or soft brush 3. Abrasive cleaner 4. Rags 5. Grout (non-sanded for joints smaller than 1/8-inch, sanded for 1/8 or bigger) 6. Float 7. Citrus-based cleaner 8 Grout Sealer

Saw Out the Mold

Working in one 2-by-2-foot area at a time, run the saw up and down the grout line.

Vacuum Loose Residue

Vacuum out flaked residue, or use a soft brush to remove the grout pieces.

Clean Grout Joints

Put some abrasive cleaner on a wet rag and rub the joint to remove any remaining residue.

Mix the Grout

Lay the Grout

Clean the Tiles

Add a Skim Coat

Add a “skim coat” after the first application has dried. This will fill in any tiny holes.

Clean Dry Grout

Apply Grout Sealer

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for applying grout sealer. If you follow the directions, you should never have discolored grout again.

I’ve got grout between some floor tiles that is cracking and coming out in small chips, over time. The tiles and remaining grout are otherwise in great shape. I suspect this is just a problem high-traffic area of the floor in our hallway. I’m not about to tear up the entire floor to solve the underlying issue.

But, if I did want to patch the grout (while accepting it is likely to crack again, down the road) what is the proper way to fill in missing grout so that new grout bonds with the old? Should I remove any more of the old that appears to be cracking before filling in?

2 Answers 2

When I’ve done grout repair I’ve cleaned out the old grout, did some slight prodding to see if anything else was loose, made sure the area was bone dry and then got a small batch of grout from the local hardware store. You can probably buy a small tub of the premixed grout (unless you have colored grout then you’re stuck buying a larger tub usually).

I just put it on as normal grout, slap it on, push it in, smooth it out a bit, let it dry and wipe off the excess. It’ll take a little while to fade in but now it looks like it was part of the original tile job.

It is almost impossible to match the color exactly unless you replace all of the grout. Fortunately grout is typically much cheaper in larger quantities.

A fast, easy way to remove unwanted sanded mortar/grout between tile is to use a circular saw with a ripping blade that is less than half the thickness of the tile spacing

(ripping blades have few teeth and a large gullet for good chip removal – you aren’t actually cutting the mortar/grout, but essentially chipping it away – for this reason it is extremely important to wear PPE and protect breakables in the surroundings and needless to say the blade will never cut wood again so use an old or cheap one)

The process is quite simple:

Set your circular saw to the depth of the tile by resting the blade on a flat surface between 2 scrap pieces of tile that are the same thickness as your tile

** (You may need to manually move the retractable guard).

Cover breakables (drape a cloth/plastic over windows, lights, and “nick-nacks”)

** The small to medium sized bits of mortar/grout will exit the circular saw at a high velocity. If you can devise a catch that will work with your equipment and space, it will be much safer and save a lot of cleanup time.

Once you have your self, area and tools setup, simply guide the saw blade down the center of the grout-line and let the blade chip away the unwanted mortar/grout. This will cover all but the exterior few inches (due to the guides of the saw and curve of the blade) Finish the rest with hand tools (I’ve found that a cheap appropriately sized flathead screw driver and a hammer work about 8 times as efficient as a grout saw on sanded grout and mortar)

Some grout products say “stain-resistant,” others say “sanded” or not, and all the different technologies can become confusing for the average do-it-yourselfer. Especially if you just want one thing: a grout that doesn’t stain.

Jennifer from Missouri faces this very situation and wants to know what she can do before renovating her bathroom. She doesn’t want to deal with stained grout this time around.

We recommend applying Fusion Pro from Custom Building Products. It comes premixed, which means the consistency is perfect and you can apply it right out of the bucket.

This grout is stain-proof all on its own and it’s available in 40 colors to match any style home.

Listen to the Today’s Homeowner Podcast for more home improvement tips!

• [2:38] Danny and Joe discuss a recently taped TV episode, a community service project in Marianna, Florida, Danny’s hometown.
• [10:58] Best New Product: Zevo Flying Insect Trap Starter Kit.
• [12:26] “You talk about [Leviton electrical outlets] a lot … so how do I pick out one from so many?”
• [16:38] I have an old 1880s home in Wiggins, Mississippi, that we have renovated and added on to. There are oval ornamental vents around the house, but none on the addition … Do I need to install a vent with an exhaust fan that measures humidity and turns on or off based on how high or low the humidity level is?”
• [22:40] “We’re renovating our bathroom and I want to avoid grout stains like we had in the old one. Can you help?”
• [24:38] Simple Solutions: Four tips for safely using an air compressor
• [27:04] Question of the Week: “I had a tile man show up, lay moisture barrier, then backer board, then tape the seams with duct tape! I never heard this as an industry standard. Do I trust this guy to continue tile work for me?”

Simple Solutions

Air Compressor Tips — Here are four tips to keep in mind when using a portable electric air compressor:

1) First, always wear safety goggles and hearing protection when running the compressor. Place compressor in adjacent room, if possible.

2) Compressors vibrate quite a bit when running, so set them on the floor and on top of a soft mat of some sort, such as a folded blanket or quilted moving pad.

3) And all that vibration can over time loosen nuts, bolts and screws, so periodically check the compressor and tighten any loose fasteners.

4) Compressed air often contains moisture that collects inside the compressor’s storage tank. It’s important to drain the tank after each use to prevent rust and corrosion. Unplug the compressor, then open the valve on the bottom of the tank. The air pressure in the tank will blow out the moisture.

Accurately Cutting Plywood Parts—When building plywood drawers, cabinets and boxes, it’s important to know that plywood is typically slightly thinner than its nominal thickness.

For example, ¾-inch-thick plywood actually measures slightly less than 11/16 inches thick. So, if you’re building a 10-inch-wide box and cut the two sides to 8½ inches, the box would only be about 9 13/16 inches wide, not 10 inches.

To avoid this, simply clamp together two pieces of the plywood. Lay a ruler across the parts with the 10-inch graduation aligned with the edge of the clamped-together plywood.

Now, simply read the dimension on the opposite edge. That’s the length of the side pieces.

Question of the Week

Q: “I had a tile man show up, lay moisture barrier, then backer board, then tape the seams with duct tape!”

“He said it sealed the seams, but before he could lay any tile most of the tape came loose and was hanging in many places. I began questioning his knowledge of tile prep.

“After questioning other tile setters, I learned many tile setters use duct tape. I never heard this as an industry standard. Do I trust this guy to continue tile work for me?”

A: Duct tape is not recommended for this application; instead, use fiberglass mesh tape. Get a damp cloth and wipe down the project area, let dry and then apply. Then, go over it with thinset mortar.

If you wish to maintain a clean, shiny bathtub that both your family and guests can enjoy, it’s important to know how to repair grout around your bathtub, especially if you are planning to remodel your bathroom.

Before you learn to manage grout, you should first understand that grout is the valuable “glue” that seals the tiles of your bathroom area. It’s a needed construction material that must be clean and maintained at all times. Grout is a reliable material, usually made from cement or mortar, used to fill in cracks and cavities that could potentially ruin the appearance and/or function of your bathtub area.

Yet aged and dirty grout around bathtubs gives the whole bathroom a less than clean look. Most home improvement experts agree that, when it comes to grout, replacement is the true key to repair. The application of new, fresh grout can add a whole new sheen to the area surrounding your bathtub, creating a cleaner, more polished look.

Steps to Repair Grout Around the Bathtub

Step1: Clean the Surroundings of the Bathtub

Before you apply new grout around your bathtub, you must first remove the old, excess stuff that posed the problem in the first place. Many people use a razor blade for this purpose, though you must be careful not to scratch the tub. Others prefer to use a proessional grout saw or the sharp end of a utility knife. Regardless of the tool you choose, it’s important to handle this tool carefully, applying it only to the excess grout you wish to remove.

Step2: Clean Grout

The next step is to use a damp cloth coated either with water or a solution of 50 percent water, 50 percent bleach to clean your work area, removing any remaining traces of grout, along with the fungus and mildew that accompany it.

Step3: Apply New Grout

Now it’s time to apply the new grout, which can be purchased either in its purest form or perhaps pre-mixed. If the grout has not been mixed, you may have to add water to the mix and then apply this mixture with the help of a spatula or other helpful household tool. Once the application is complete, allow your work area to dry for 24 to 72 hours, or as recommended by package instructions, then clean the excess grout with a gentle, non-scratching abrasive pad.

Step4: Apply Grout Sealant

The final step is to apply a grout sealant, again cleaning up any excess liquid after allowing appropriate time for drying.

As other grout management options, you can search local home improvement stores to seek tools and products to recolor or remove mold and fungus from existing grout. You even have the option of painting grout, with the use of artist brushes or a toothbrush-style tool.

Regardless of how you choose to manage and repair your bathtub grout, your primary objective will always be a cleaner, shinier tub area; an area that maintains a new, fresh look, regardless of its age or degree of use.

As you may know, we met and dreamed up the idea for this brilliant blog while working at the same nonprofit organization. So perhaps it is no surprise that some of our co-workers are readers and like to talk to us about the projects that they see on the blog. We’re basically celebrities. But as much as we love talking about us, our favorite is when they ask us questions about their own DIY or decorating projects — it means we’ve somehow tricked them into thinking we’re experts at this (check out the advice that we gave our friend, Stephanie, on decorating her patio).

So we were recently thrilled when a totally boring business meeting was interrupted with a conversation about grout. Our co-worker, who we will anonymize for her protection as “Mecky,” had the following question:

I need your advice! It looks like the grouting in our 1.5 year old bathroom needs to be redone. There are cracks in it along the corners and my mother is convinced that black mold is imminent. It would be a stretch to call me handy but it seems like this should be something a novice could take on. What do you think?

At our desperate insistence polite request, she also provided these pictures of the issue:

Thanks for your question, “Mecky!”

Based on what we’ve read, this seems like a project that a regular homeowner could do. We would both be comfortable taking on this project in our own homes, and neither of us have much experience with tile or grout. But the thing we always consider is whether it is worth our time. Depending on how extensive the cracks are, this could be a very time consuming project. It really depends on how you would like to spend your Saturday.

If you are crazy like us and think this sounds like a great way to spend a Saturday, here what we’ve learned about how to fix this yourself:

How to Repair Cracked Grout

The first step is to remove the old grout surrounding the cracks. It’s a bummer, but very important. According to “the floor elf” (an elf who apparently writes a blog about tiling floors), the new grout or other filler won’t be able to bind to the old grout so it is important to clear it entirely from the sides of the tile, and at least 2/3 of the way down each affected tile, so that it has enough area to form a good bond.

They sell tools specifically for this called “grout saws,” like this one from Amazon (affiliate link – read our policies), which was just $15 when we looked.

You can also use a dremel, which is probably not worth buying just for this project, but is a very handy tool to have around as a homeowner. Sage has this dremel (affiliate link – read our policies) and likes it quite a bit.

Once all the grout is cleared, wipe it down with a damp cloth to remove all of the debris and dust. Then, you are ready to fill it with a new material!

The Great Grout Vs. Caulk Debate

Our extensive internet research has revealed two camps of thought on this: the grouters vs. the caulkers. But the one to choose really depends on what you think caused the problem.

Who says making adult decisions can’t be rock’em sock’em fun? (thanks for making such an awesome toy, Mattel) | Images via Ace Hardware, Digital Media Academy, and Custom Building Products

If you think that the cracks were caused by incorrect grouting to begin with, then you might want to try to fill it with new grout. (You can tell it may have been done poorly if the cracks formed very soon after the tiling was originally done, showing that the grout may have been mixed incorrectly, etc.) The benefits of using grout are that it will be a lot easier to match the color and texture of your current grout, and that if it works, it will be a permanent solution to the issue. The major drawback is that if the cracks were formed by a structural problem, the new grout will just crack again and you’ll be right back where you started from.

If you think grout is the solution, we found this article on SFGate to be a pretty good tutorial for that process. Besides getting the right color, the other big thing to know when you pick a grout is whether you need sanded or nonsanded. Nonsanded is used in spaces smaller than 1/8 inches and sanded in spaces larger than that, so based on your pictures you would probably need nonsanded.

On the other hand, the floor elf is a major proponent of using caulk instead. (Guys, we LIKE this elf. He is hilarious. He is also very authoritative for an elf, and we’ve based at least half this post on his advice.)

Caulking seems to be recommended if the cracks are caused by a shifting in the foundation or the joints where they are applied. Grout has no give-and-take and so will crack if there is movement. This is most likely to happen at corners and the edges between wall and ceiling or floor, so from your pictures it seems like this may be the issue for you. Caulk has flex, and so can maintain its seal through these shifts. However, it will be trickier to match the color and texture to your current grout, so you’ll have to live with a more mismatched look. Also, caulk isn’t a permanent solution, so you might find yourself scraping it out and replacing it every few years.

If you do go the caulking way, we encourage you to read the floor elf’s post on the subject (he is also very responsive in the comments if you have detailed questions). This tutorial by the Family Handyman and this one on Houzz are also good quick overviews on the process — they recommend using a special caulk called “ceramic tile caulk.” This special kind of caulk — which you should be able to find at most home improvement stores — comes in sanded and nonsanded variations just like grout, and again you’ll probably want nonsanded given that the spaces between your tiles are less than 1/8 inches.

We hope that was helpful, “Mecky!” Thanks for your great question. We learned a lot about grout today are definitely trustworthy experts. We’d love to hear what you decide to do, and how it works!

I’m about to remodel a bathroom. I’ll be switching out a shower stall and know my tile floor will have to be patched. Fortunately, the previous owner left behind lots of tile for me, but there’s no grout. I’m afraid that if the grout doesn’t match, the repair will stand out like a sore thumb. What’s worked best for you when you have to match grout on your jobs? — Karen J., Marblehead, Mass.

You should locate that past homeowner and give her/him a huge hug. It was quite thoughtful to leave behind some of the extra building materials. I did that with my last home whenever I could. In my case, I used oversized brick to build my chimneys. Knowing it would be almost impossible to locate in the future, I saved about 50 bricks for a future homeowner should they need them for any reason.

Matching interior grout can be a challenge, but it’s not impossible. As with most things, if you want perfection, you need to invest some time and effort. I agree with you about how important it is to match both the grout color and texture. No matter how wide the grout lines are, if they don’t match you can see it right away.

The matching process starts by deep cleaning the grout. I’ve had the best success doing this with oxygen bleach. This is a powder you mix with hot tap water. Once all the powder is dissolved, you pour the solution onto dry grout allowing it to soak and bubble for about 15 minutes.

At the end of the wait period, you scrub the grout vigorously with a stiff nylon scrub brush. Be sure the brush bristles touch the grout. Don’t use a flimsy toothbrush. You want to really scrub. The longer you allow the oxygen bleach solution to soak, even up to an hour or more, the less you have to work. If the solution soaks into the grout while you wait to scrub, add more so that a film of solution is on top of the grout.

Rinse the floor after cleaning to ensure all the dirt is up. Allow the grout to dry overnight. You can usually tell if you got the grout clean by looking at the edges of the floor where no foot traffic has touched it. The grout along walls and in corners usually is much cleaner than where you walk. If all the grout looks the same color at this time, you can start the matching process.

Before you buy new grout, make sure what type you have. Grout can be sanded or unsanded. Sanded grout contains fine silica sand and Portland cement. Unsanded grout is just Portland cement. Dry pigments are added to both types to create the colors you see.

Sanded grout is easy to spot because you can see the tiny bumps of sand in the texture of the grout. Unsanded grout is very smooth.

The time of day to match grout color is midday. If you try to match grout color at night, the color temperature of the lightbulbs in the bathroom can interfere with your ability to get a perfect match. Some incandescent bulbs are available that render a color temperature close to the natural sunlight toward the middle of the day. Consider using those if you have to match when the stars are shining.

Get samples or a color chart of new grout and hold it next to your existing grout. If you can salvage a chunk of existing grout from under a baseboard next to a wall, this is the best way to start the matching process. The original tile setter undoubtedly put grout at the edges of the floor before the wall trim was installed. Pry off a piece of baseboard and see whether you can get a chunk of the grout.

The color of the grout out of the bag before you add water to it is the color it’s going to be once dry. You can prove this by mixing up some new grout and allowing it to dry. Add just enough water to the dry grout to make it the consistency of stiff applesauce.

Often you can’t get a perfect match from one bag of grout or one brand. You may be forced to do some creative mixing and blending of different colors of grout to get a match. This requires great discipline and diligence as you need to be very exact in your measuring, blending and mixing as you create test batches. Record-keeping is everything in this exercise.

When you add water to the dry grout, the color gets deeper, and it can be frightening. This is why you need to mix up a test batch and allow it to dry before you commit to the actual grouting of your new tile.

If you’ve never grouted before, realize that water is both your friend and foe. You need water to mix and clean up the mess on the tile. But too much water will ruin the new grout.

Water in excess during the mixing process or as you clean and strike the joints will dilute the amount of Portland cement in the mix. If you allow this to happen, the grout will crumble and crack over time.

Properly mixed unsanded grout is the consistency of slightly warm cake icing. As mentioned earlier, you want sanded grout to be the consistency of stiff applesauce. When you wipe off excess grout from the tile surface, the grout needs to be somewhat stiff in the joints. I urge you to watch the four-part grouting tile video series at my AsktheBuilder.com website to see how to do this. Use this handy URL: .

If you touch the fresh grout too soon, the sponge will remove grout, creating a depressed grout line. Squeeze out all the water you can from the rounded grout sponge before you allow the sponge to touch the tile.

Sealing the Marble Tiles

There are a number of things that you have to be concerned with when you install a marble tile floor. While the material itself is relatively delicate, you have to be aware that the grout lines that surround each tile are also susceptible to moisture penetration, stains, and the growth of mold. If not properly cared for, over time these lines can become dark, nasty ropes of horror lacing beneath your feet.

Removing and then re-grouting these lines is a great way to revitalize the look of a marble installation without having to go to the expense and hassle of completely re-doing the floor. It is a relatively easy project, and it can be done quickly, allowing you to make a dramatic improvement for a small investment.

Time to Complete: 1-2 hours work, and an additional 4 hours drying time

Materials Required

• Grout saw or Dremel
• Tile Grout
• Grout Float
• Sponge
• Marble Sealer
• Foam Brush

Sealing the Material

It is important to note that marble is a very porous material. If left unprotected, both dry dust and wet grout can soak into the pores of these tiles, causing permanent stains. That is why the very first thing that you want to do is to apply a coat of a marble surface sealing agent to the entire floor. This is especially important if it has been more than six months since the last time you applied sealer to it.

Removing the Grout

Using a grout saw or an electric tool such as a Dremel with an appropriate attachment, begin to remove the grout from between the marble tiles. As you work, be very careful to avoid the edges of the tiles themselves, as you do not want to chip or scratch them. This can kick up a lot of grout dust, so make sure the area is well-ventilated. You may also want to wear a breathing filter.

If you just want to do a quick job you can remove the grout down just the middle of the joints between the individual pieces of marble. This will allow you to finish the job quickly and will look somewhat better. However, you should strive to remove all of the grout as thoroughly as possible if you want the best look and the most consistent coloring.

Vacuum and Mop

When you’re done there will probably be a layer of grout dust lying across the entire floor. Sweep or vacuum this away to remove the majority of it. Then mop the floor down, using an equal parts solution of water and vinegar. Allow this to dry completely before you move on.

Regrouting a Marble Tile Floor

Mix the grout according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If desired an entirely new grout color can be used. The options available to you range from black and charcoal to grays, browns, whites, and even a few rustic reds. New grout color can change the look of a room almost as much as an entirely new floor.

Use the grout float to apply the grout to the seams between the marble tiles, holding it at a 30-degree angle as you sweep it across the floor’s surface. Swipe excess grout away as you work, making certain not to allow it to dry on the marble.

Rinsing the Grout Away

Use a large and slightly damp sponge to wipe the grout clear from the surface of the tiles. You want to remove the grout before it has a chance to set. At the same time, you want to be careful that excess liquid doesn’t spill off of the sponge, and run off into the grout seams, turning the mix into a soupy mess. You should also take care to avoid swiping bits of grout out of place with a careless sweep of the sponge.

Sealing Marble Grout Lines

Give the grout at least 24 hours to completely dry. Then you need to apply another coat of chemical surface sealer to the floor. This is because grout is a porous material, and it will also need protection against moisture penetration and staining agents. The second coat of seal will also help to protect the surface of the tiles themselves.

Q : Two sides of our house are surrounded by large flagstone patios, probably 20 to 30 years old and maybe even older. The mortar between the stones is cracked and crumbling. I believe the stones are set on a cement/concrete pad. What can we do to fix this ourselves?

Fairfax County

A : Replace the mortar. Sometimes it’s possible to pry out the loose sections using a thin, stiff tool, such as an old screwdriver or chisel or a painter’s five-in-one tool. But, given the amount of damage shown in the picture you sent, you might want to remove all of it. Be careful not to pry the stones up from whatever is underneath. (If a stone does come loose, it’s not a disaster. You can reset it in a bed of the same cement mix you’ll use to refill the joints.) With a wire brush, remove as much of the debris in the joints as you can.

For the replacement mortar, skip over packages of mortar mix and instead buy sand-topping mix. A call to the technical help line at Quikrete, a manufacturer of a wide array of cement mixes, confirmed that sand-topping mix is preferable to mortar mix for this use. Sand mix contains more cement and will be more durable. For extra protection against cracking, buy acrylic fortifier to replace some of the water you’d normally use to prepare the sand mix. The fortifier, which is basically thin white glue, is sold in jugs near other concrete supplies. When you’re at the store, also buy a pointed trowel and a masonry sponge, the type that works best to remove smears on stones.

In a bucket, stir a 50-50 mix of water and fortifier into the sand mix as directed on the package, typically six pints of liquid for a 60-pound bag or four pints for a ­40-pound bag. Add a little more water, if needed, to get it to the consistency of thick frosting. Be careful not to make it soupy.

Wearing rubber gloves, apply the mortar mix with the trowel. Working on just a small area at a time, stuff joints and immediately flatten them with the trowel. Then, with the damp sponge, wipe over the joints to smooth them. Also wipe off any mortar on the surface of the stones. Rinse the sponge and clean the stones again. Go over them a third time, if necessary, because smeared mortar, especially when it’s prepared with fortifier, is very difficult to remove once it dries.

All cement mixes become stronger if they dry slowly over several days. The mix has to stay damp during that entire period. Periodically mist sections you have finished. Then, once you’ve repaired a substantial area, cover it with a sheet of plastic or a tarp, weighted down at the edges. Clear plastic comes in rolls at building materials companies, near where tarps are sold. Use several sheets if needed. At Home Depot, a sturdy, 6-mil, 10-by-25-foot roll costs $25 ( homedepot.com ). It comes in larger sizes, too. For one-time use, you could use thinner plastic. A thin, 2-mil, 10-by-100-foot roll costs $30, also at Home Depot. Leave the patio covered for five days this time of year or seven days in cold weather. But avoid freezing weather — not something you need to worry about for many months.

I have a stand-alone wooden screened porch. The screening has deteriorated over time, and the porch needs to be rescreened. I haven’t been able to find anyone who does this type of work. Do you have any suggestions?

McLean

There are two basic ways to attach screening to a porch. Sometimes it’s stapled to the framing. Other times it’s held in framing via splines, and the frames are attached to the support structure.